Showing posts with label meals. Show all posts
Showing posts with label meals. Show all posts

Tuesday, December 31, 2013

Cocktail Buzz Favorite Things of 2013

Look for our Cheddar and Caramelized–Stuffed Mushrooms recipe below.

Since everyone had decided to become a foodie in 2012, we made a conscious decision at the beginning of 2013 to savor rather than blog, tweet, facebook, and instagram every waking moment of our bibulous and culinary exploits. After six years, we needed to find out if we truly enjoyed the Cocktail Buzz experience, or if we were just going through the motions. As a result of this decision, we blogged, tweeted, facebooked, and instagrammed with less frequency, but that forced us to pick and choose those occasions where our lips and gullets were most pleasantly pleased or delectably delighted.

But we still continued to question ourselves. What were our motives for making kimchee from scratch or infusing white whiskey with gentian-laced crème de violette to make a florally bitter tincture? We looked for insight from everyone, and from every shared happy hour and meal together.

The epiphany happened just a week or so ago when our friend Evangeline asked Paul point blank, “What job would you do if you could do any job in the world?” “Recipe development” was the quick response. Steve agreed. For us, there is nothing more satisfying than to be surrounded by an arsenal of utensils and gadgets, all eagerly waiting their chance to have a go at bottles and boxes of promise. And, in the battlefield that is our wee kitchen, we thank the gods that, even though the two of us barely fit only with the proper geometric skirmish, we can comfort ourselves with the knowledge that our appliances comprise a perfect triangulated pathway connecting our sink, range, and fridge.

Regardless of the size of your workspace, you must instill a sense of play and adventure. When you give yourself license to play freely, nothing is so precious as to become weighed down by vainglory. You tend to shrug at the losses and smile when there are victories; you learn, and that is what life is all about. You rediscover your love for shaking and stirring, simmering and sautéing.

Culling from every lip-smacking experience we shared this year was not as difficult as we had thought. We agreed that spirits, liqueurs, books, movies, and recipes we returned to more than once — those things that contained multitudes of layers — would make the cut. In no particular order, here are some of our favorite things of 2013.

1. Favorite Books

The Drunken Botanist
Critics, bartenders, and foodies praised The Drunken Botanist by Amy Stewart, and you should too. Written in a fun and easy, approachable manner, this book celebrates and limns in great detail “The Plants That Create the World’s Great Drink,” the book’s subtitle. Filled with recipes, lore, science, and anecdotes, The Drunken Botanist will satisfy the science-loving child in those who paid attention in school, to those who want to know why allspice seeds won’t germinate from simply planting them (they “must pass through the body of a fruit-eating bat, a baldpate pigeon, or some other local bird”). It will inspire the home mixologist to start infusing spirits and sourcing unusual products, such as sorghum syrup, used in the following recipe, named after a popular sweet sorghum cultivar, which the author describes as “dessert in a glass.”

Honey Drip
(from The Drunken Botanist by Amy Stewart)

Ingredients
1/2 ounce sorghum syrup
1 1/2 ounces bourbon (or if you don’t like bourbon, try it with dark rum)
1/2 ounce amaretto

Method
Because sorghum syrup can be too thick to easily pour or measure, try spooning it into a measuring cup and heating it in the microwave for 10 seconds with a very small amount of water, just enough to make it easy to poor. (Alternatively, drop a dollop of the syrup in the cocktail shaker and hope for the best.) Shake all the ingredients over ice and serve in a cocktail glass.

Old Mr. Boston Official Bartenders’s Guide ©1935
Paul’s Mom has a friend named Janet who happened to come across an almost 80-year-old copy of a familiar friend to many home bartenders, the Mr. Boston Guide. We were thrilled when she deemed it necessary that we have it. This is our third copy (the others are from 1988 and 1968 — the 1968 copy coming from Marie, another of Mom’s friends!!), and we just love it. Filled with period ads for Mr. Boston products, it’s set up in the format of another famous bar guide, The Savoy Cocktail Book. The measurements are mostly in proportions, instead of precise ounce measurements (cocktails were smaller back then as any Nick and Nora movie can attest to), such as 1/2 Italian Vermouth and 1/2 Old Mr. Boston Dry Gin, which is the recipe for a Gypsy Cocktail. Just substitute your favorite London dry gin.

Gypsy Cocktail
(from Old Mr. Boston Official Bartenders Guide)

Ingredients
1/2 Italian [sweet] Vermouth
1/2 Old Mr. Boston Dry Gin

Method
Stir well with ice and strain into 3 oz. Cocktail glass. Serve with a Cherry.

The Way We Ate
Subtitled “100 Chefs Celebrate a Century at the American Table,” this lovingly curated cookbook from photographers Noah Fecks and Paul Wagtouicz pairs chef’s recipes with years from the twentieth century. We represent 1969 and developed a cocktail with two side dishes using the Stonewall Riots as a jumping off point. Try our ’69 Cocktail paired with lamb chops with mint gremolata and some cheddar and caramelized–stuffed mushrooms. We served the cocktails and the mushrooms to our families on Christmas Eve. They were gone in three minutes. [Buy the book]

Cheddar and Caramelized Onion–Stuffed Mushrooms
(created by Cocktail Buzz for The Way We Ate by Noah Fecks and Paul Wagtouicz)

The savoriness of these ingredients combined creates an explosion of umami on first bite. Pairing it with a 69 Cocktail coaxes out even more flavors.

Ingredients
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large yellow onion, sliced
1 pound button mushrooms (smaller ones are better)
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
2 tablespoons brandy or cognac
4 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, cut into 1/4-inch-thick 1-inch squares
1/4 ounce Parmesan cheese
Finishing salt, such as Maldon

Method
Preheat oven to 350°F. Cover a baking pan with parchment paper, then place a wire cooking rack atop the paper.

Heat the 2 tablespoons oil and 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat in a large skillet. Add the onion and slowly cook until caramelized, stirring occasionally, about 40 minutes. Reduce the heat if the onion starts to brown too quickly.

Meanwhile, remove and discard stems from the mushrooms. Wash the mushroom caps and set aside.

When the onion has caramelized, add the Worcestershire and brandy. Simmer for a minute, making sure to deglaze the pan. Transfer the onion to a plate or bowl, and set aside. Add the mushroom caps to the skillet, top with a lid, and heat on low for 2 to 3 minutes, flipping once, until the mushrooms soften slightly. Drain any excess water from the mushrooms, and place top down on the rack. Gently press 1 square of Cheddar into each cap. (You may have to cut the cheese into smaller pieces depending on size of the caps.) Top the cheddar with a generous dollop of the onion mixture, then a little piece or two of Parmesan. Transfer to the oven and bake for 15 to 20 minutes. Remove and transfer the mushrooms to a plate. Sprinkle with finishing salt. Serve immediately.

[Makes about 2 dozen, depending on the size of the mushrooms.]
photo © Noah Fecks and Paul Wagtouicz

2. Cloud Atlas


Okay, officially the movie Cloud Atlas came out in 2012, but we didn’t watch it until 2013, and boy, what a movie. Spanning six different time periods ranging from the nineteenth to the twenty-fourth centuries, imdb.com describes this tour de force as “[a]n exploration of how the actions of individual lives impact one another in the past, present and future, as one soul is shaped from a killer into a hero, and an act of kindness ripples across centuries to inspire a revolution.” The six interconnected story lines suggest we are all connected, just by being. At times funny, poignant, and harrowing, this mind-fuck of a flic will keep you glued to your seat for its entire 2 hours and 51 minutes. Do watch the credits; you will see how all of the main actors played multiple roles, one in each time period, with the help of makeup, prosthetics, and, of course, great acting. We loved it so much we had to watch it twice. (We even bought the book by David Mitchell.)

3. Organic and Non-GMO Food

The following edict may seem mean, but it comes from a place of tough love: Stop eating processed food! Well, it’s nearly impossible to stop eating it altogether, but maybe start by not shoveling it down your throats all day. That’s what we have been saying for years, and it’s finally taken the courage of well-intentioned whistle-blowers to get the word out. GMO stands for genetically modified organisms, meaning scientists have fucked with the DNA in certain plants so that foodstuffs travel better, have a longer shelf life, and someone gets richer along the way.

Food that is organic is not, by law, genetically modified. The corn, soybeans, and sugar beets that are in everything are genetically modified (thanks Monsanto), and many current scientific studies think that the allergies that are pervading our lives are caused by such GMO food. Want to feel better, don’t eat the crap. Want to live longer, don’t eat the crap. Basically pay attention to what you choose to eat and make informed decisions.

Now that we got that off our chests, we will continue with our regularly scheduled program.

4. The Manhattan Cocktail and All Its Variations

Looking back on 2013, we realized that the cocktail we drank the most was indeed our fave, the Manhattan. Although the basic formula of 2:1 whiskey to sweet vermouth, with a dash of bitters, is our go-to recipe, we have made countless variations, using obscure and well-known liquors, quinquinas, tinctures, vermouths, cordials, and bitters. Besides our love for the burnished, caramelized, woody flavors inherent in American whiskeys such as rye and bourbon, perhaps it is the Manhattan’s simple elegance that beguiles us time and time again. Here are two variations you may enjoy.

The Boulevardier
(adapted by Toby Cecchini, the guy who made the Cosmopolitan famous)

Ingredients
2 ounces rye or bourbon
1 ounce Campari
1 ounce sweet vermouth
lemon twist

Method
Stir in ice for 30 seconds. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass or coupe. Add lemon twist.

Saratoga
(adapted by Cocktail Buzz)

Ingredients
1 ounce rye
1 ounce cognac or brandy
1 ounce sweet vermouth
2 dashes Angostura bitters

Method
Stir in ice for 30 seconds. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass or coupe.

5. Christmas in New York

We finally broke down and stayed in New York City this Christmas, uniting our families for an extravaganza of food, flavor, and fun. Neither of us had ever spent the Holidays in NYC, or Brooklyn to be exact, so we decided that if not now, then when? Our goal: to feed and inebriate up to twenty people on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day without stressing too much about it. How did we manage that, you ask? Two things are required: prepare most of it ahead of time, and don’t fret if you forget the cherries and onions for the cocktails.

Our main course on Christmas Eve proved to be simple and sumptuous: Martha Stewart’s recipe for Beef Tenderloin with Shallot Mustard Sauce; our Christmas day main was less formal but equally as tender and savory: Hawaiian Pulled Pork. The pulled pork was a blessing: we made it two days before and just heated it up, served with mini soft dinner rolls. Here’s the recipe.

Hawaiian Pulled Pork
(created by Cocktail Buzz)

Ingredients
6-pound pork shoulder (or just the Boston butt) (plus or minus a pound is fine)
1 medium onion, chopped
2 tablespoon olive oil

Dry rub:
1/2 cup light brown sugar
1 tablespoon li hing mui powder, also called just li hing powder (don’t know of any substitutes, so if you do not have, just eliminate)
1 tablespoon ‘alaea salt (you can substitute any sea salt)
1/2 tablespoon gochugaru powder (you can substitute any hot chile pepper powder)

Wet mix:
20-ounce can pineapple chunks in juice (not syrup)
1 mango, diced
1 garlic clove, minced
1/2–1 tablespoon ume plum vinegar (you can substitute apple cider vinegar, or any other, since the amount is so small)
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 nob fresh galangal, minced (with juice) (you can find at Kalustyan’s in NYC or substitute fresh ginger)
juice of 1 lime

Method
Preheat oven to 350ºF, adjusted for middle rack. Trim skin and excess fat off pork shoulder, but not all the fat. Rub with dry rub, working into flaps, folds, and crevices. Heat oil over medium-high heat in a dutch oven. Sear meat, approximately 2–3 minutes each side. Brown sugar will begin to bubble and blacken on bottom, so keep a watchful eye. Add onions. Cook for a minute. Add wet mix, making sure some is on top of shoulder. Lay aluminum foil over the pot so it drapes a little over the edges, for a better seal. Cover with lid, tightly. Cook for 3 1/2 hours, flipping shoulder every hour. When done, remove from oven, remove lid, and shred with 2 forks. (Careful, it’s very hot.) Remove bone and anything gristly. Serve with dinner rolls.

❤ ❤ ❤

Remember to enjoy the experience. Sometimes tweeting that cocktail pic is part of the experience, just don’t make it the experience. Share the moment, followed perhaps by a smile.

Tuesday, April 30, 2013

Two Cucumber Side Dishes for Spring, plus a Pimm’s Cup Recipe

Cocktail Buzz’s Cookbook Challenge Continues . . . 

Our Cookbook Challenge has yielded tasty results, including Stuffed Cucumbers with Green Mayonnaise, above.

Last month we challenged you to pour through your cookbooks, both dog-eared and pristine, every time you needed inspiration for ingredients you had lying around. Throughout the month of April, we continued to be inspired by Culinary Artistry and The Alice B. Toklas Cook Book when we had some cucumbers that were in desperate need of a makeover. We present you the following results.

Stuffed Cucumbers with Green Mayonnaise
(adapted from The Alice B. Toklas Cook Book)
Serves 2–4

Cucumbers are low in calories, have a goodly amount of antioxidants, and are very high in vitamin K, which has been found to increase bone strength. They are also quite tasty in this side dish that celebrates the greenness of spring, incorporating peas, string beans, and a host of fresh greens and herbs. It takes a little time to make, but is well worth the effort, especially if you want to double up the recipe for a spring dinner party or brunch.

Ingredients
2 long cucumbers
4–6 ounces frozen or fresh peas
4–6 ounces (handful) string beans, stems removed
chives, minutely cut
large handful cress (any kind), stems removed
large handful spinach (not baby), stems removed
large handful fresh chervil, stems removed
large handful fresh tarragon, stems removed
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
6–8 ounces mayonnaise
juice 1/2 lemon

Method
Cut unpeeled cucumbers in half lengthwise. Boil for 2 minutes. Remove from heat and place cucumbers in an ice bath until cooled. Dry thoroughly and chill. With water still boiling, add string beans and cook until desired tenderness. Remove from heat and place beans in an ice bath until cooled. Dry and chill. In the same water, boil peas until desired tenderness. Remove from heat and place peas in an ice bath until cooled. Dry and chill. Boil cress, spinach, tarragon, and chervil for 2 minutes. Remove from heat and place herbs in an ice bath until cooled. Drain using a colander, pressing as much liquid out as you can. Then wrap herbs in cheese cloth and squeeze out the remaining liquid. Chop finely and mix in mayonnaise with the juice of half a lemon. Set aside.

Remove vegetables from refrigerator. Take cucumbers and hollow out by removing seeds with a 1/2 teaspoon or other rounded spoon, within 1/4 inch of the skin. Set aside on a tray. Dice beans. Fill cucumbers with beans and peas. Dollop with green mayonnaise. Sprinkle with chives.

Notes
Sometimes fresh chervil, a lightly green-flavored and delicate herb, can be difficult to find (it’s notoriously difficult to grow, as well). You can use some curly parsley instead, or eliminate altogether.

Quick Pickled Cucumber Slices
(inspired by Culinary Artistry by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page)

Paul looked up “Cucumbers” in Culinary Artistry for some flavor-pairing inspiration for a quick pickle. The results will keep you stealing them from the jar. They are perfect as a sweet and tart side dish, or as a topper for sandwiches.

Ingredients
1 long cucumber, peeled and sliced thinly into circles (a mandoline at 1.5 or 2.0 makes this easy)
1/3 cup rice vinegar
2/3 cup white vinegar
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon dried spearmint
1 1/2 teaspoons dried dill
1 teaspoon dried urfa pepper flakes, or some other smoky slightly hot dried pepper, such as aleppo
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 large shallot, thinly sliced

Method
Place cucumbers in a bowl. Meanwhile, dissolve sugar in both vinegars in a small saucepan over low heat, stirring occasionally. Add the remaining ingredients. Remove from heat. Allow to cool uncovered.  Pour over cucumber slices. Transfer to a sterile jar and refrigerate.


Pimm’s Cup
(adapted by Cocktail Buzz from the traditional recipe)

Nothing says “It’s warm enough to have a drink outdoors” like a Pimm’s Cup, a bittersweet elixir that originated in England as a gin-based, herbal-infused digestive aid, and is now a traditional seasonal drink for many American tipplers who enjoy yachting, horseshoes, and an excuse to have a cocktail before Happy Hour. We also use Pimm’s in our Zul Mule, another tasty concoction that lets the one-of-a-kind flavor of Pimm’s shine.

Ingredients
1 1/2 ounces Pimm’s No. 1
3 ounces lemon-lime soda (you can substitute ginger ale)
cucumber and lemon slices, as garnish
ice

Method
Fill a highball or collins glass with ice. Add Pimm’s and top with soda. Stir until slightly chilled. Garnish with slices of cucumber and lemon.

Notes
Borage flowers
If you have some borage growing in your garden, do add a bloom to the glass as you would a mint spring. Borage was originally used, along with the leaves, as a Pimm’s Cup garnish. The blooms are edible and taste a little like cucumbers.

Our next Cookbook Challenge

Follow us as we channel creative vibes from our next three cookbooks, picked totally at random: Knives Cook Love from Sur la Table, Feast by Nigella Lawson, and Nigella Bites by Nigella Lawson (yes, two Nigella books!).

photos © Steve Schul, Cocktail Buzz

Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Gravlax Is Easy To Make, and Will Impress Your Guests


Salt, sugar, white peppercorns, and dill are all that’s needed to make the divine Scandinavian cured salmon dish known as gravlax.

When I was in my twenties, I lived with a woman named Erika Worm (it’s pronounced vorm) who showed me the way around a professional kitchen. We lived in her family’s big house on a lake, and Erika cooked as if she were made for the task. As a result of her mom’s catering spell, not only was she blessed with the skills to rival a Top Chef, we had the run of a two-Viking-range kitchen with all the bells and whistles. I would watch her make dish after dish, probing her with questions about temperature, taste, and plating. Later in life, when I was the master of my own kitchen (read nonprofessional), I would try to replicate her dishes. One dish that stood out — one that did not even involve any cooking — was her recipe for gravlax.

Gravlax, slices of salt and sugar–cured salmon that have lightly soaked up the essence of fresh dill, is actually quite easy to make, and I remembered this distinctly. I think Erika called it a no-brainer that looks really impressive on the buffet table. All one needs to do is obtain a fresh piece of salmon, preferably one with the skin still on, and with a close-to-uniform thickness (the center cut works best), rub it with the cure, cover it with fresh dill, and let it sit for a day. How’s that for a no-brainer? I can already hear the wheels spinning in your head. You’re asking yourself where you can buy the freshest piece of salmon because you want to make this for your New Year’s Day brunch.


After you blanket the salmon with the salt and sugar cure, cover it with bunches of fresh dill.


Slicing the gravlax once it’s cured is really the only tricky part. Just make sure you have a thin-bladed and extremely sharp knife at the ready. Have some chilled champagne ready, as you will want to serve your beautiful creation with some bubbly. We recently enjoyed some gravalax with a passion fruit bellini made with thawed passion fruit (maracuja in Portuguese or lilikoi in Hawaiian) puree we always get from a Brazilian shop on 46th Street in Manhattan called Buzios. It also comes in a bottle. You can probably get it at a specialty market that stocks ethnic foods, but if not, you may have to ask your grocer to stock it.


Gravlax with Mustard Dill Sauce
(inspired by recipes by Erika Worm, Marcus Samuelsson, and Ina Garten)

Gravlax

Ingredients

1 1/2 – 2 pounds salmon fillet (skin on, thick center cut)
1 1/2 cups sugar
1 1/2 cups salt
2 tablespoons white peppercorns, coarsely ground (use less if you only have black peppercorns)
2 bunches fresh dill (reserve a handful for the sauce)
optional ground spices (such as cumin, caraway, coriander, aniseed, dill seed, juniper berries), in any combination and amount (this is not necessary, and is only suggested if you like to experiment)

Method
In a bowl, mix the sugar, salt, and peppercorns (and any other spices if you are using them). Place the salmon in a glass dish and remove any pin bones. You can locate them by running your fingers over the flesh where the natural separation occurs. Remove with your fingers or a pair of clean bottlenose pliers. Scoop up some of the mixture with your hand and rub all over the salmon, skin included. Place the salmon in a glass dish, and cover with the remainder of the mixture. Then, cover the salmon with the dill so that you don’s see any of the salmon. Press down gently. Let stand at room temperature for 5 hours, 6 maximum. Cover, and refrigerate for about 24–48 hours, the thicker the salmon, the longer the curing time.

Remove the gravlax from the dish (it will be swimming in all the liquid the salt cure has leached from it, and it should smell slightly metallic and briny underneath the dill). Discard the dill, and quickly rinse the gravlax under cold water until the mixture has been washed away. Do not saturate the gravlax. Place the gravlax on a cutting board and with a sharp knife cut thin slices across the grain.

Serve with mustard dill sauce and slices of bagel, or brown bread, or crisp rye bread. Sides of capers, sliced red onion, and lettuce leaves will be appreciated as well. Best eaten within 4 days.

Mustard Dill Sauce (aka hovmästarsås or gravlaxsås)

Ingredients

1 tablespoon honey mustard
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
2 teaspoons sugar
3/4 cup oil, such as grapeseed or other neutral-tasting oil
salt and white pepper, to taste
1/4 cup chopped fresh dill

Method
In a bowl, or preferably a standing mixer, add all the ingredients except the oil. While mixing vigorously or with the mixer on high, slowly drizzle the oil in steadily. Mix until it thickens.

Passion Fruit Bellini
Ingredients

1/2 tablespoon passion fruit puree
1/2 teaspoon simple syrup*
3–4 ounces champagne, prosecco, or any sparkling wine

Method
In a champagne flute, add the passion fruit puree and the simple syrup. Top with chilled champagne.

* In a sauce pan over low heat, dissolve 1 cup sugar in 1 cup water, stirring occasionally until all crystals have dissolved. Let cool and transfer to a clean, airtight container. May be kept in refrigerator for up to a month.

Text by Paul Zablocki
Photos by Steve Schul and Paul Zablocki

Friday, October 8, 2010

An East-Meets-Midwestern Barbecue Inspires Sumptuous Delights

Grilled Dry-Rubbed Pork Steaks with Sides, Apps, and Cocktails (and don’t forget the dessert!)

Basil Caesar Salad, All-American Potato Salad, and Grilled Dry-Rubbed Pork Steaks. A perfect farewell to summer.

Every so often along comes a cut of meat that has heretofore escaped your grill’s searing clutches. Sometimes even escaping your grillmaster’s lexicon. For us, the new cut on the block calls itself Pork Steak. If you have heard of pork steak, you’re probably from the South or Midwest where pork steaks are grilled regularly. They’re sliced from a Boston Butt, that rich part of the pig that’s also called pork shoulder. Steve’s dad visited us recently from the land of Table Rock, Missouri, and he brought with him his Midwestern recipe so you can make the tastiest grilled pork ever to grace your picnic table. And besides being fall-apart tender, you can grill it all even before your guests arrive. The spice rub Steve’s Dad came up with really gives the meat an authentic Midwestern flavor of smoke and sweet heat.

What to serve our Brooklyn guests before dinner was an easy choice; even though we could feel the cool fall air descend upon us, we decided to leave summer behind with a bang:

{ For recipes, and to read more about and see photos from our amazing barbecue, click here. }

Friday, April 23, 2010

A Four-Course Elegy to Gourmet Magazine


October 5, 2009, the day that Gourmet Magazine announced that it was throwing in the towel, our hearts all skipped a beat. Was it really possible, or, like Mia Farrow in Rosemary’s Baby, were we all in a feverish nightmare trying to wake up to the smells of something good coming from the kitchen? No, it wasn't a dream; it was really happening. We had just renewed our subscription (for two years . . . we loved it that much) just the day before. What would we do now?

Cousin Barbara e-mailed us the press announcement as reported by the New York Times. She suggested that we should come together to celebrate the life of this golden magazine by cooking our favorite recipes culled from shelves of dog-eared magazines, compilation books, and stained recipes printed from Epicurious. A gustatory feast? What an inspired way to eulogize the years of culinary inspiration, for not only did Gourmet provide each and every one of us with recipes to provoke, comfort, and challenge, it also gave us glimpses into the world of top-notch chefs, food writers, growers, butchers, and manufacturers. Every time we opened the mailbox and saw the latest issue awaiting us, our hearts aflutter, our eyes glued to the cover dish, we’d wonder what photo or seasonal veggie would inspire us to make our shopping list and walk to the local market in preparation for our next Gourmet meal.

Every Gourmet reader had their favorite month. Traditionalists loved November, filled with Thanksgiving side recipes and new ways to make the turkey tender and savory. For some, fall’s orchard recipes would inspire pastry chefs of all ages to break out the rolling pin and start dusting the counter with flour. For others, many would count the days before the first spring issue arrived, excited for new recipes with peas, asparagus, and artichokes, almost forgetting what these harbingers of spring tasted like after a surfeit of winter root veggies.

We decided to wait until spring to break bread. The season of renewal would inspire us, even if some of used fall recipes. Just so long as we made some of our favorites. It didn’t matter that none of us made a meat dish, or that there were two pasta dishes. This was about love and loyalty and getting together with friends to share an evening hanging out in the kitchen, and moving into the dining room when it was time. For a challenge, we’d also have to pair our dish with a beverage, either alcoholic or non-.

To read more about this adventure of 4 foodies and the amazing dishes they made, plus two delicious and refreshing drink recipes, click here.

Fava Bean and Pecorino Bruschette, plus recipes for Oysters Rockefeller, the Tom Collins, The Mocktail, and links to recipes for the very best Macaroni and Cheese; Almond-Crusted Shrimp Cakes with Lemon Soy Mayonnaise; and Mushroom, Radicchio, and Smoked Mozzarella Lasagne. Click here.

Thursday, March 4, 2010

The Srirachacha Lights Up Our Lives


The Srirachacha, a savory Martini with just a drop of Sriracha chili sauce and a dash of celery bitters, garnished with a pickled green tomato.

One cold Sunday night this past January, we were too lazy to go out and brave the frigidaire that was Brooklyn, so we quadruple-locked the door and said to each other “Let’s make a Martini . . . but not a Martini Martini.” Something a little more exotic. So we looked in the frigidaire that was in our kitchen and Steve whipped out a jar of Rick’s Picks Pickled Green Tomatoes. Acknowledging his choice, I espied a brightly vermilion-hued squeeze bottle of Sriracha hot sauce. We know you’ve seen it. If it’s the original from Huy Fong Foods, it’s got a big outline of a rooster on the front and a neon green cap. It’s actually an American invention, by David Tran, in 1984, who wanted to make a ketchup-like condiment, but one that reminded him of the chilies back home in Vietnam. (There are other Sriracha chili sauces on the market, such as Roland, which looks similar, but has two yellow Chinese dragons on the bottle, and a mustard yellow cap.) Well, we decided that this sauce (pronounced SIR-rotch-ah) was going to some how mix with gin and dry vermouth to create a new cocktail, based on an old favorite.

We had some Dolin dry vermouth in the fridge, and some sample mini bottles of Death’s Door gin that we picked up at Tales of the Cocktail last summer. If you haven’t had a drink made with Death’s Door, you must seek one out. The gin, from Wisconsin, is made with organic wheat and juniper berries found wild on Washington Island. You can taste the juniper, along with zingy fennel and bright coriander, in the gin, and it mixes extremely well with the Dolin. Old-school Martinis have a dash of orange bitters, but we decided to wait on adding bitters until we added the hot sauce.

Deciding on old-school measurements, we gave the gin and vermouth a ratio of 3 to 1. Since dry vermouth loves to swish around with gin, why not send the two into quivers of sprituous delight. In thinking of the amount of Sriracha, we decided on but one drop per drink. Why overdo a good thing. After a quick shake and a taste, we were pleasantly surprised at how much we liked it. And only a hint of the Sriracha came through, just enough to elevate this drink to something more complex. However, we both knew that a little bit of bitters was needed, but not orange. Celery would be more befitting. Just a dash did the trick. And adding a nibble of pickled green tomato made the last bite a perfect end to a harmonious drink.

Steve dubbed it “Srirachacha” (stress on the final syllable), and we proceeded to do some not-in-synch, pseudo-sixties parlor-hipster Cha Cha moves. It proved to be a great pre-dinner appetite stimulator (the drink, not the dancing), because as soon as Steve was making up another batch, I was sauteeing up some chicken cutlets piccata-style, with a little Singapore seasoning added to the flour, plus more as the chicken lay sizzling in the butter-drenched skillet. And to top off those golden moist cutlets: Sriracha sauce, of course, and a little candied citron, for good measure.

So, when there’s still a nip of cold in the air, but the promise of spring teases us with a sunny day, heat things up with the Srirachacha. A drop of Sriracha chili sauce is all you need. Think of it as a a crisp martini with a warm glow. And don’t forget to treat yourself to some Seared Singapore Chicken Cutlets as a little side. Bon appetit.

Srirachacha
(created by Cocktail Buzz)

Ingredients
1 1/2 ounces Death’s Door gin
1/2 ounce Dolin dry vermouth
1-2 dashes Bitter Truth celery bitters
1 drop Sriracha chili sauce
1 piece of pickled green tomato, such as Rick’s Picks

Method
Add all ingredients except tomato to a shaker. Shake with ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a pickled green tomato.

The Srirachacha perfectly pairs with an appetizer of Seared Singapore Chicken Cutlets.

Seared Singapore Chicken Cutlets
(created by Cocktail Buzz)

Ingredients 
1 package of thin chicken cutlets (about 5), cut into bite-sized pieces
1/2 cup flour
1/8 cup Singapore Seasoning from Penzey’s, or another spice mix that contains curry flavors
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Sriracha chili sauce
bite-sized candied citrus peel, as garnish (citron works beautifully with the Sriracha)

Method
Melt butter in a pan over medium heat. Meanwhile, mix flour and Singapore Seasoning in a bowl. Dredge chicken pieces in flour mixture, and add to pan when butter starts to sizzle. Cook on each side for about 3 minutes. Sprinkle more seasoning on each side. Remove from heat. Drizzle with Sriracha. Scatter with candied peels. Serve immediately with Srirachacha cocktail.

Saturday, January 9, 2010

Our Favorite Holiday Things


The holidays flew by this year. One day seemed to bleed into the next, and before we knew it, we were celebrating the Epiphany with a Hot Toddy of Hudson Single Barrel whiskey, pretending to not notice that our white Christmas tree needed to be taken down and stored away until Yuletide 2010. But even though the days whizzed pass us like an Acela train to Boston, we managed to hold onto the memories of our favorite things, moments, and comestibles. Let us take you on a fast ride through Christmas in Connecticut with Paul’s family, then back to Brooklyn to celebrate Paul’s birthday, and then a quiet New Years Eve, which everyone seemed to have this year in New York City.

1. Spice Cookies
Paul works with Sarah, and Sarah’s mom gave her a recipe for spice cookies that are so easy and, more important, delicious. Out of all the cookies and small confections we made this season, these were the first to fly off the plate. A slight crispy exterior cloaks a chewy center filled with cinnamon, clove, and ginger. Perfection.

Spice Cookies
(from a 1971 collection of recipes from parents and alumnae of the National Cathedral School for Girls)

In a bowl mix together the following:

3/4 cup unsalted butter, room temperature
1 cup sugar
1/4 cup molasses

In a separate bowl, sift together the following:
2 cups flour
2 tsp baking soda
1/4 tsp. salt
1 tsp. cinnamon
3/4 tsp. ground cloves
3/4 tsp. ginger

Add flour mixture to wet mixture and mix until fully incorporated. Using a teaspoon, drop dollops onto a parchment-lined cookie sheet at least an inch apart. Bake for 8–10 minutes at 375° F (8 minutes was perfect for our oven). Remove from oven while still puffy (you don’t want to overbake these cookies) and let cool for a few minutes. Remove from cookie sheet and place on cooling rack. Sprinkle with powdered sugar.

2. Mashed Sweet Potatoes and Parsnips
We made our beloved Thanksgiving mash of sweet potatoes and parsnips for the gang in Connecticut for our Wigilia, or Christmas Eve celebration for Poles. Even though we don’t follow the fish-only rules of Wigilia anymore (we had fruit-and-spice-drenched pork tenderloin), we did bring a lot of veggies to the table. And for those in Paul’s family who were afraid of parsnips, they were quickly won over by the fluffy mild sweetness of the deliciousness before them.

Mashed Sweet Potatoes and Parsnips
(created by Cocktail Buzz)
(Ranges suggest using your judgment; this is not an exact science)
6 sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
2–3 parsnips, peeled and cut into chunks
1–2 T light or dark brown sugar
2–4 T unsalted butter, softened
1/4 cup heavy cream
ground cinnamon or cassia, to taste
ground nutmeg, to taste
salt and ground white pepper, to taste

Add sweet potatoes and parsnips to a pot of boiling water. Cook until very tender. Drain add add back to the pot. Add the brown sugar, butter, and cream. Mash everything together until desired smoothness or chunkiness, depending on how you look at it. Incorporate seasonings, to taste.


Dad and Paul fight for kitchen domination; Amanda making a butternut squash and blue cheese salad; Steve and Paul love cookies, especially the Pistachio–Orange Crescents from Gourmet December 2008.

3. Celebrity
Celebrity is the perfect party game, and after a full night of eating and drinking, it’s a perfect antidote to falling asleep while the company is still over. A bunch of us played on Christmas Eve and we’re sure the neighbors must have been curious as to why everyone was shouting “Beyoncé,” “Lady Gaga,” and “Tiger Woods.” Here’s how you play: (1) divide your group into teams; (2) hand out the same number of slips of paper to each player (when we played with 2 teams of five each, we handed out 6 slips of paper to each player); (3) have each player write down the names of famous people, either living or deceased, real or fictional; (4) fold the slip of paper in half (only one fold) and toss them all into a big bowl.

Now you’re ready to get crazy. Here’s how you play: (1) choose a player on the first team to go first (someone from another team becomes the timekeeper and someone else becomes the scorekeeper); (2) when the timekeeper shouts “Go!” Round One begins, and the first player picks a slip of paper from the bowl and describes the person written down to his or her teammates ( you cannot use any part of the name or any word written down on the piece of paper or you have to throw the slip back into the mix and pick a new slip; you also can never pass if no one on your team cannot guess . . . that’s just tough luck); (3) when someone from the first player’s team correctly guesses the name of the celebrity (it must be exactly as written), he or she chooses another slip of paper; (4) play continues in this manner until the timekeeper calls “Time” after one minute; (5) you then count up the number of slips of paper the players guessed correctly, put the slips of paper aside for the moment, then pass the bowl to the next team; (6) The next team starts play in the same fashion.

After all the slips of paper have been guessed, (1) the timekeeper stops the clock and figures out how many seconds are left over from the round’s minute; (2) all the slips of paper are added back to the bowl, and (3) the team that ended the last round continues with the remaining number of seconds for Round Two: One Word. In this round, you can only use one word to describe the name on the slip of paper. Let’s hope you were paying attention in Round One to all the names that were guessed, because this will make Round Two much easier. Try to be as specific as you can when choosing your one word. It can be triggered from something someone said in the first round, or, like the old TV game Password, use a definitive word that will make your team guess correctly. You can repeat the word as often as you want, use an accent, dialect, falsetto, hell, you can even sing the word over and over to the tune of a jingle that might trigger a correct response. Just do your best and try not to look like a deer caught in the headlights.

Then when all the slips of paper have been guessed again, you move on to Round Three: Charades. That’s right, Round Three is all about acting out. You play the same way you did in Rounds One and Two, except you can use no words or utterances. Anything else is allowable. When all the slips are used up, the game is over. The scorekeeper announces the winner. Now it’s time for bed.

4. Birthday Cake × 2
Steve outdid himself this year by making two exquisite birthday cakes. The Devil’s Food Cake with Brown Sugar Buttercream was a sight to behold on Mom’s birthday: smooth and creamy, with a hint of burnt-sugar layers of buttercream swathing rich dark layers of velvety chocolate cake. With all the guests at Christmas Eve, there was little cake left over for the morning. But what a cake! Thank you, Gourmet, for the recipe.

The second birthday cake, for Paul, a Peppermint Meringue Cake with Chocolate Buttercream, graced the cover of December’s Bon Appétit, and for good reason. It’s gorgeous. Paul loves peppermint and chocolate (Steve made a multilayered extravaganza for Paul’s birthday last year). This year’s cake resembled a yule log, and was tiered with meringue, peppermint syrup, rich chocolate cake, and ganachy buttercream. Topped with fresh raspberries and chocolate–mint wafers, the jury quickly delivered a verdict of guilty with the intent to induce decadence. With a glass of milk to accompany it, this cake rocked our worlds.

5. Manhattans, 4 Ways
Paul, his dad, brother Michael, and Steve took Mom out for her birthday (Mom’s birthday is Christmas, but we cheated and took her out a few days later) to a fantastic, mostly steak restaurant in West Hartford called Fleming’s. The food and service were exceptional, but what was really remarkable were the generous Manhattans poured by the man behind the stick. Each of us ordered a Manhattan using a different whiskey, and, of course, we all went around sipping each other’s drinks and taking mental notes. Don’t ever think that all Manhattans are created equally. Even with a 2 to 1 ratio of whiskey to sweet vermouth and two dashes of Angostura bitters, each one of our Manhattans tasted distinct. Next time you throw a little Manhattan cocktail party, make sure to buy an array of ryes and bourbons, and have your guests choose their poison. Demand they share a sip or two so that way everyone can get in on the fun. You may discover a new whiskey that will make you love this perfect cocktail.


Mom was radiant on Christmas Eve after opening her birthday presents—“Indulgence” seemed to sum up the whole day, and every bite was worth it; Michael and Amanda exchange gifts.

6. Clementines
These darling little oranges grace us with their sweet juice and aroma during early winter, so run down to your local market and pick up a little bag or crate of them. We’ve been using them all the time in cocktails and also just to sip or eat. They’re seedless and easy to peel, but, because they can be small, they yield about a half ounce of juice per Clementine, if you’re lucky. Prepare to be juicing them for a while if you want to make an entire pitcher. That said, we recommend turning on some music that makes your hips shake while you’re standing at the kitchen counter, fruit in hand.

As promised over a month ago, we came up with a cocktail using cranberry sauce–infused Midnight Moon moonshine as its base. Adding some freshly squeezed Clementine juice, plus some bourbon and St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram (think cloves) to the candy-red hooch makes for a seasonally spicy, almost punch-like quaff, we decided to call it Pomander Punch, after those clove-festooned oranges Queen Elizabeth used to walk around with and put to her nose when she made her famous countryside tours meeting the ablutions-challenged people of her land.

Pomander Punch
(created by Cocktail Buzz)
1 1/2 oz. cranberry sauce–infused Junior Johnson’s Midnight Moon Carolina Moonshine*
1 oz. bourbon (we used Bulleit)
1/2 oz. Clementine juice
1/4 oz. St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram

Shake in ice for 15 seconds. Strain into chilled glasses. Garnish with a half-moon slice of clementine or a whole pericarp of star anise. Serves 1.

If making a bowl of punch, increase the amount of Clementine juice to 3/4 oz. and then multiply all the ingredients by eight. Refrigerate until chilled. Pour into a bowl with a big chunk of ice in its center. Garnish with Clementine orange wheels and star anise pericarps. Ladle into punch cups or glasses.

* In an airtight container, add 1/3 cup homemade cranberry sauce (follow directions on package of cranberries) for every 2 cups moonshine (you can substitute vodka if moonshine is not available). Let infuse for at least five days and up to two weeks (the longer you wait, the better), shaking the container at least once a day. Strain into another airtight container and label.

7. The Hangover
Shamelessly hilarious and dirty, The Hangover is the perfect movie antidote to all the serious shit in the world. You will laugh so hard you may just pee or do a spit take. Bradley Cooper, Ed Helms, and Zach Galifianakis make the perfect unholy trio. These guys are the new Three Stooges. Do not watch this movie with someone who does not like watching grown men running around naked, are offended by drunken disregard for nondrinkers, or have no sense of humor. We warned you.

A group of hungry Christmas Eve revelers break out the glug and grub.

8. Anthos
We had read about and seen on television wunder-chef Michael Psilakis countless times, but had never eaten at one of his restaurants. Psilakis takes traditional Greek dishes and adds his own personal sense of taste and identity. He is self-taught and, let us tell you, when it comes to flavor, who cares about the pedigree of the cook. It was Paul’s birthday the day we returned from our Connecticut jubilations, and he’d been pining to go to Anthos, Psilakis’s posh Midtown joint, for quite a while. (Paul is a big fan of all Mediterranean fare.) We started our meal with, what else, a cocktail–the Anthos Cocktail, to be exact—and it was a balanced blend of Metaxa (a brandy–wine blend), Grand Marnier, honey, lemon, and champagne, a lovely introduction to the flavors to come. So when the waiter presented the menu, we had a difficult time narrowing our selection down to the standard appetizer/entree two-stop visit. So we opted for the seven-course dinner (which actually added up to be ten by the time we were finished—chefs who see that you’ve cleaned your plates love adding extra nibblies, especially desserts, to the roster). After we told the waiter of our plan to pig out (he had already brought us a meze trio of classic Greek dishes (like keftedes), hors d’oeuvre style, the chef of the evening popped his head out of the kitchen to see who ordered the seven-courser on a gelid Monday evening at 8:30PM. We guess he liked what he saw (and used powers of mental telepathy) because he made for us everything on the menu we wanted to try. Our favorites were the smoked octopus, small but surprisingly meaty arms, laced with baby fennel, lemon confit, and marinated mushrooms; rabbit manti, succulent ravioli flavored with vlahotiri cheese and dill, bathed in a mild rabbit consommé; and juicy, rare slices of lamb saddle accompanied with brussels sprouts, white beans, lamb pastrami, potato, and egg. We were full after eating the lamb, but then were treated to three dessert courses whipped up by the amazing pastry chef, one including tiny bites of butternut squash confections done four ways, and a flossy raspberry cotton candy puff sprinkled with tart blackberry powder. The sour cherry–seed ice cream was unfathomably sumptuous, akin to the way maraschino liquor dances on your palate in a cocktail. The bonus Ouzo left us giddy, full, and smiling. We urge you to give Anthos a try, and, if you can, get the seven-courser. Try to go on an off-night. That way you can feel like we felt: relaxed, not rushed, and taken care of.

9. Seelbach Cocktail
The Seelbach is a marriage made in heaven for those imbibers who like to tipple champagne and bourbon. Two types of bitters add lots of great spicy flavors, like clove and anise. We decided to whip some of these up at our friend Tony’s place when Tony invited us to a home-cooked dinner of old-fashioned pot roast. Here’s one of our favorite ways to make a Seelbach. You can adjust ratios as you see fit.

Seelbach Cocktail
(adapted by Cocktail Buzz)
1 oz. bourbon
1/2 oz. orange liqueur
7 dashes Angostura bitters
7 dashes Peychaud’s bitters

Stir in mixing glass half-filled with ice for 30 seconds and strain into flute.

Top with:
4 oz. champagne or prosecco
Garnish with:
extra long orange twist


10. New Cookbooks
Steve got two inspired and inspiring cookbooks from his mom this Christmas, both by the gorgeous TV healthful-cooking guru Ellie Krieger: The Food You Crave and So Easy. Steve immediately zeroed in on two recipes and made them posthaste. The Cherry Vanilla Oatmeal shined as did the mildly sweetened-with-honey Mango Lassi we sipped just the other day. Steve promises Pumpkin Pie Muffins next.

His mom also got Paul a few cookbooks for Xmas/Birthday and he’s had fun pouring through the pages of Forking Fantastic by two ladies in Queens who throw supper club–style dinners for guests once a week. The book is an often hilarious (and dirty) account of their no-thrills philosophy (guests set the table), plus a host of menus to keep diners happy. Another book he has been drooling to while perusing is Mario Batali’s Molto Italiano. Steve took Paul out to Babbo for one of his birthdays and they’ve been in love with Batali’s cuisine and smattering of restaurants ever since.

11. Jamie Oliver’s Flavour Shaker
The Naked Chef has made making salad dressing a joy. Steve always makes the salad dressing, and sometimes it would take him quite a bit of time, he being a meticulous mincer. But with Jamie’s new Flavour Shaker (it’s shaped like a Russian matryoshka doll), all you do is add your ingredients, seal the shaker, and a polymer ball breaks everything about as you give it a good jostle. Steve took Jamie’s salad dressing recipe and riffed a little. Here are the tangy results:

Creamy Garlic Salad Dressing
(adapted by Steve Schul from Jamie Oliver)
1/2 tsp. black peppercorns
1/2 tsp. rock salt
1 clove garlic, peeled
2 T white balsamic vinegar
1 T sour cream
5 T canola oil

Put the peppercorns, salt, and garlic in the bottom half of the Flavour Shaker. Drop the ball in and screw the top on tightly. Shake for 20 seconds, then hold upright and unscrew the top. Add the rest of the ingredients, screw the top back on and shake again for 10 seconds. Your creamy garlic dressing is now ready. If you don’t have the Flavour Shaker you can use a mortar and pestle to grind the garlic with the salt and peppercorns. Mix in the vinegar and sour cream and whisk in the oil in a steady stream. This dressing is best fresh but will keep for several days if chilled. Bring to room temperature and shake before using.

12. Stretching Meals
We must take a moment and talk about the economy. Geez. How much longer can we stay in this slump? Enough said. So with that in mind, we decided to s t r e t c h our meals this holiday season by making big pots of stews (like the lentil and hot sausage stew in the photo) and soups, and large cuts of roasts and such. Not only are you going to save a butt-load of money, you will be forced to be creative and come up with variations on a theme. One night we cooked a boneless leg of lamb marinated in red wine, then encrusted with some cardamom, cumin, and coriander seeds, accompanyed by some roasted Cape Cod turnips. The next night we made some lamb sandwiches on crusty sourdough. But the next time we have lamb (Steve ground the rest and froze it), we’ll be making some lovely lamb-filled ravioli in broth. Can’t wait.

13. Spice Jars and Racks
While cooking and baking during the holidays, we grew beyond weary of searching for herbs and spices in our cupboards, so we decided to do something about it: We rented a Zipcar and zipped on down to Ikea in Red Hook. Our goal: spice jars for all our herbs, rubs, seeds, and blends, and racks that would fit above our cupboard in a neat long line. We found some picture rail that fit with the rounded (and inexpensive) spice jars, and, after standing in Ikea with our iPhone calculators, did the math, and came home with a bunch. We also bought little tag-sale stickers from the local stationers, stuck those to the lids, and came up with Periodic Table-style abbreviations to help us identify the contents of each jar. What geeks. We hope you like the results. We certainly do.

Reflections from the lids give these spice jars an angelic feel.

14. Hot Toddies
Hot Toddies are to us in the winter what highballs are to us in the summer. We love them, and on a bone-chilling night in Brooklyn, you will see one of us firing up the kettle on the stove in prepartion for this warm and smooth drink. It’s so simple, and you can change the ratios as you see fit. Some people like them sweeter, others more diluted. We believe each spirit dictates how much sugar and water need to accompany it. Mostly, we make ours with some type of whiskey, but any dark spirit will do. One revelation was using Cruzan Black Strap Rum. This rum looks like and tastes of molasses.

Black Strap Toddy
(created by Cocktail Buzz)
1 1/2 oz. Cruzan Black Strap rum
1/2 tsp. sugar (use demerara sugar for more richness)
3 oz. just-boiled water

In a heat-proof glass, or mug, add the sugar. Add a little water to dissolve it. Then add the rum, followed by the water. Blow on it before you sip. You can add a Clementine twist, if you so desire.

15. Tree-Trimming
Now that it’s time to take down the white Christmas tree and the once proudly preening poinsettia swathed in red tree lights, we take a moment to reflect on the Tannenbaum party we shared with Matt and Monica, their kids Francis and Cole, and our dear friend Curt. After Sipping frothy Ramos Gin Fizzes (another favorite of the season) and watching the glee-inducing Wizard of Oz with the kids enraptured, we all knew that this festive occasion was a precursor to more holiday joy to come.


photos by Steve Schul, Cocktail Buzz; final photo courtesy of Monica Thurnauer

Saturday, December 12, 2009

Tree-Trimming with Brunch and Cocktails


Our dear friends Monica and Matt have two lovely children, Frances and Cole, and every year we try to host a tree-trimming party where the kids are the center of the holiday festivities. This year we decided on a brunch with bagels (courtesy of our friend Curt) smothered in cream cheese, nova, and little bites of capers and scallion; swiss cheese quiche; and, to keep the Swiss theme in the fore, Zwiebelwähe, a Swiss onion tart that’s thinner than a quiche, but just as tasty (we got the recipe from Saveur magazine). Monica made some incredibly light pumpkin scones, which added nice spice flavors to the buffet table. (A lot of bready, starchy, goodness, yes, but who’s really counting when it’s the holiday season.)

Zwiebelwähe (Swiss Onion tart). Difficult to pronounce. Easy to eat.

The kids were no shrinking violets this year; they knew that the tree-trimming was the focus of the party and they were at the center. Frances, almost 6, acted as tree-decorating ringleader, and Cole, almost 4, followed his big sister’s advice as she evenly placed ornaments from each bough in hopes of producing a beautiful display. Their artistic concentration allowed the adults to focus on toasting with a little holiday cheer, this year in the form of mimosas. Mimosas are a terrific drink for a situation like this: you want to catch a light buzz and feel the gaiety of sharing food and tales with your friends. Making a perfect mimosa, though, is subjective. For a cocktail with only two ingredients, everyone seems to like theirs with a different ratio of orange juice to champagne, as we’re sure you do. For our mimosas this season, we used freshly squeezed Clementine juice (so sweet!) and Sofia blanc de blanc (from a bottle this time). Just make sure you’ve squeezed all those gorgeous little Clementines before your guests arrive or you’ll be mired in a drippy mess as you try to scramble to make the drinks.

Frances contemplates her next move with the concentration of a chess champion.

The weather was cooperating so after the trimming and the noshing, we took a little constitution on the terrace with a round of new cocktails, Ramos Gin Fizzes, a frothy blend of gin, heavy cream, egg white, and some orange flower water. (Instead of shaking shaking shaking until our arms ached, we used a blender—much better for a party.) It’s the orange flower water that gives this drink its characteristic, perfumed flavor, and the gin that gives it its kick, but its the cream and egg white that elevate this drink to the rare status of breakfast cocktail as it leaves a frothy moustache on your upper lip as you sip.

Cole rewards himself for a tree-trimming job well done.

Back inside, after we devoured a flourless chocolate cake, the kids got to open their gift: this year we decided that they could share a DVD of “The Wizard of Oz.” They know the entire story through songs and books, but never had they seen the film until we all sat quietly around the TV and watched as Dorothy Gale does everything in her power to save her little dog from the machinations of Miss Almira Gulch, aka the Wicked Witch of the West. Never have we seen two youngsters so enraptured (and quiet) by movie magic, but we had to remark that it was us, the adults, who were enraptured as well. We all knew the movie frame by frame and couldn’t wait for Dorothy to open the door from her drab, sepia-toned life on the farm in Kansas to the enchanted, brightly colored world of Oz. “The Wizard of Oz” may be 70 years old this year, but it has never failed to cast its spell over the hearts and minds of children and adults all over the world.

Mimosa
(traditional brunch cocktail)

Ingredients
orange juice
champagne

Method
Fill a champagne flute a third of the way with chilled freshly squeezed orange juice. Top with chilled champagne, but leave a little room at the top to add more juice or champagne, depending on your preference.


Ramos Gin Fizz
(adapted from Gary Regan’s The Joy of Mixology)

Ingredients
2 oz. gin
1 ounce cream
1 raw egg white
1/2 ounce simple syrup
1/2 ounce fresh lime juice
1/2 ounce fresh lemon juice
1/4 ounce orange flower water
club soda
1/2 cup ice
quarter of an orange wheel, as garnish

Method
In a blender, mix everything except the club soda until frothy. Divide between 2 champagne flutes, and top with a splash of club soda. Drop the garnish atop the froth.

Bagels with Nova and Cream Cheese

Ingredients
bagels, sliced down the middle and in half to make half-sandwiches
Nova (cured and smoked Eastern salmon)
capers
chopped scallions
cream cheese
dried dill

Method
Toast the bagels, smear with some cream cheese, sprinkle with dill, capers, and scallions. Top with slices of Nova.