Left Coast vs. East Coast Libations: A Spirited Dinner Romp That Promises Four Courses (Plus Amuse) and Ten Cocktails. Hijinks Guaranteed.

One of the events we look forward to every year at Tales of the Cocktail is the Spirited Dinner® Series, and our choice this year promises to be a gentle and humorous battle between several bartenders from the Left Coast (which comprises Vancouver all the way down to San Diego) and the East Coast (from Boston to Miami). The venue, GW Fins seafood restaurant. Our host, Ted Munat, co-author of Left Coast Libations, a cocktail book extolling the virtues of the other coasts’ top bartenders. Ted promises to “guide us through a comedic journey into the East/West ‘Rivalry’ of the cocktail nation, featuring 10 star bartenders from both coasts in round by round battles for supremacy.” Supremacy and battle might sound a bit heavy-handed for an event in which the bartenders all seem to get along, no matter from which coast they find themselves behind the stick. But hyperbole, mixed with alcohol paired with tasty cuisine prepared expressly for the event by Chef Mike Nelson, sounds like the perfect recipe for an evening charged with bold flavors, and a variety of shaken and stirred styles. According to the press release, “Theatricality will of course be immense. Laughs, tears, and intense realizations are guaranteed.” Bring it on!

Mike Nelson

Says Debbie Rosen, publicist for the GW Fins Spirited Dinner, “Michael Nelson has been GW Fins’ Chef de Cuisine for several years, and as such he has been developing the Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Dinner Menus for the past four years.”

She continued, “With Tales of the Cocktail, the event directors request GW Fins’ Spirited Dinner menus the November prior to the event, so the chefs really have to think about what will definitely be at its prime in July without much wiggle room. They also have to put themselves in the mindset of light, summer dishes in the thick of the winter.”

With that in mind, Chef Nelson created his menu first, before the cocktails, with the goal that these dishes would be easy to pair with the bartenders’ creations. Over the years, working with bartenders on these Spirited Dinners, he noticed that they “either create a drink that is lighter and has fruit flavors, or a simple, stiff cocktail.” Chef Nelson believes that “each of the dishes on has a sweet and sour aspect to them that works very well with either of these types of cocktails.”

Jason Littrell

Competing against West Coast (Portland) bartender David Shenaut, NYC Bartender Jason Littrell, the newest member of the Death & Co. team (one of our favorite watering holes in the world), has developed a cocktail he calls Behind God’s Back (not a reference to being naughty). This drink, using Chairman’s Reserve Rum as the base (both bartenders used this spirit) will be paired with Chef Nelson’s First Course dish, a Spicy Vietnamese Glazed Pork Belly. When asked if he has a secret weapon to defeat his challenger (Jason and Dave are actually good friends and are working closely together for the Portland Cocktail Festival in October), Jason remarked, “I’m always thinking of new ways to clown on Dave Shenaut. You’ll just have to see how this one pans out.”

In coming up with the idea for the drink, Jason found inspiration from Cachaça Dave (tastemaker Dave Catania), who shared a phrase with him one day when he was working behind the bar at Dram. “Behind God’s Back” is bandied about a lot in St. Lucia, where Chairman’s Reserve Rum is born, and refers to “something that was very far away . . . on the other side of the island.” After a little tinkering, this tiki-influenced cocktail was born. Chef Nelson is hoping that the flavors of the cocktails mingle wit the “tartness of grapefruit, acidity of tomatoes, and sweetness and spicy aspects of the Vietnamese Glaze on the Pork Belly.” We can’t wait to taste the results.

Keith Waldbauer

Shaking and stirring behind the bar at Seattle’s Liberty Bar, of which he is a co-owner, Keith Waldbauer is poised to pair the Fourth Course, a Warm Roasted Pineapple with Coconut Sorbet, with his potion he dubs the Oaxacan Flip.

Finding inspiration from East-Coast bartender Eben Freeman who once concocted a brown butter–infused rum, Keith created a brown butter–infused Fidencio Mezcal. “I thought that would work well with the type of mezcal I am working with. After doing that, I figured a flip would be in order.” A flip uses a whole egg, and along with that, Keith added Benedictine, lemon juice, Bitterman’s Mole Bitters, and, to match flavor in the dessert, some grilled pineapple Gomme syrup. Keith is competing against Don Lee, who promises the ethereal “cocktail spray into the air.” Does Keith have something up his sleeve to bring down Don Lee? “I’m there to have fun with everyone and just to work with these talented guys. So maybe my devil may care attitude is my secret weapon.” These two “cocktails” could not be any more disparate, and we eagerly await this “battle.”

But is there much difference between East Coast–West Coast style? According to Keith Waldbauer, “When I think of the differences between West Coast and East Coast, I think that the West Coast is more known for ‘market-style’ cocktails (lots of fresh ingredients) while the East Coast style is more ‘spirit-forward,’ though I also believe Seattle is kind of an island unto itself amongst West Coast cities and is more East Coast style.”

Jason Littrell concurs with Keith’s assessment. “I would postulate that there are a lot more herbs and spices going on on the West Coast (LA, SF, Portland), while the East Coast (New York) leans more towards emphasizing spirits and using infusions.” He sums it all up simply by saying, “I don't know, I just like to drink.”

And drink we will, as these top bartenders duke it out wearing wide grins and kid gloves this coming Thursday at GW Fins.

To read more about the GW Fins’ Left Coast vs. East Coast Libations Spirited Dinner, and find out what Dave Shenaut really thinks about the competition, check out Francine Cohen’s piece on Inside F&B.

The GW Fins Dinner is sold out, but you can probably add yourself to the waiting list by calling 504-581-3467.

Louis Royer “Force 53” Cognac Makes Its Mark in NYC

A bee, symbolizing the natural world, is the perfect logo for Louis Royer Cognac. For M Royer, it was a symbol of “diligence, an efficient and lively organization, and regional and craftsman work.” We like bees as well.

Last week we were invited to a Cognac tasting at New York City’s Daniel, the Michelin three-star restaurant led by the esteemed chef Daniel Boulud. Master Selector Jérôme Royer and Master Blender Laurent Robin from the award-winning Louis Royer Cognac distillers flew in from Jarnac, France, to regale 75 of us with the history of the Louis Royer company. They also offered us tastings of three Louis Royer cognac expressions, including its latest, “Force 53º,” a high-proof cognac developed especially for the American market, and a total of nine different Force 53º cocktails, created by local bar chefs.

It was our first time at Daniel, and the mood was decidedly festive. Four different cocktail stations were set up in the front dining rooms as mixologists whipped up their creations and waiters passed by with tiny bites of fish and other tasty hors d’oeuvres. Barman Jason Littrell, who was standing in for an absent mixologist Jonathan Pogash (he was busy becoming a new dad—congrats, Jonathan!), offered us each a Commes les Français, a champagne and Force 53º cocktail, mixed with a little Combier Liqueur d’Orange, Lillet blanc, and passion fruit juice, and a rinse of pastis. A lot of ingredients? Yes. But bewitching, indeed. It was the perfect way to start the evening. After about a half hour of sipping and chit-chat (Paul met the lovely Eleanor West from Food Republic, the brainchild Web site from chef Marcus Samuelsson, that caters to men’s taste), we were ushered into the private dining room where we parked ourselves at a table with some of the most delightful ladies on the planet: Jen Pelka, managing Editor of Gilt Taste, and Whitney Chen, also of Gilt Taste, and a current Food Network Food Star finalist.


Four of the nine or so “Force 53” cocktails. This photo reminds us of an old-school paper cocktail menu. Bottoms up!

A collective insobriety hung over the event once we were seated and the gentlemen from Louis Royer began their chats. Jérôme Royer, a fifth-generation distiller, charmed us as he gushed about the family business. “My blood is cognac,” he added before guiding us through tasting his VSOP Preférence and XO expressions, along with the Force 53º. All were incredibly smooth (water had been added to each to open them up), and elicited aahs throughout the room. We could tell right away that the Force 53º would be an excellent base for cocktail creations, and the bar chefs on hand crafted some beautifully redolent and tasty concoctions. Hands down our favorite offering by Jonathan Pogash was his Spice Is Nice, a rocks drink made with Force 53º, Cinnamon Syrup (courtesy of Trader Tiki), some ginger syrup, and some lime juice. What made the drink so special was not its first few sips (which had us hooked), but the garnish: a lime wheel dusted with cayenne that lay perched above the drink. When tipped, the cayenne added a new layer that was surprisingly tasty, without being too spicy.


Three Expressions of Louis Royer Cognac (from left: VSOP Préférence, VSOP “Force 53,” and XO).

As sipping continued, we discovered that Whitney used to be a total science geek (a lot of chefs have admitted to being science geeks—cooking has a definite geek factor that appeals to us); and also that Jen used to be a chef at Daniel. After more getting to know each other and four new cocktails to try, she offered us a dip into the kitchen. We quickly followed her into the heart of Daniel. To behold the hive-like activity that awaited us behind the doors was exciting and entertaining. If you would indulge us with an oxymoron here, a bustling calm canopied the chefs as their hands and tools worked in harmony to make click-clacks on the wood and stainless, and the penetrating gaze of their eyes focused on the final touches of the courses they prepared. The celadon glow of the tiles that line the walls perhaps added to this mood.

Thanks to Hanna Lee from Hanna Lee Communications for the invitation. She brought together formidable talent from all over the world to a magical place in the heart of the great City of New York.

Commes les Français
(created by Jonathan Pogash)

Ingredients
1 ounce Louis Royer “Force 53” cognac
1/2 ounce Combier orange liqueur
1/2 ounce Lillet blanc
1/2 ounce Boiron passion fruit juice
rinse of pastis
2 ounces champagne
lemon peel, as garnish.

Method
Add ingredients to mixing glass with ice and gently fold. Strain into chilled champagne flute that has been rinsed with pastis, and top off with extra champagne. Add lemon peel garnish.

Spice Is Nice
(created by Jonathan Pogash)

Ingredients
2 ounces Louis Royer “Force 53” cognac
1/2 ounce Trader Tiki Cinnamon Syrup
1/2 ounce ginger syrup (from the Ginger People)
3/4 ounce fresh lime juice
lime wheel dusted in cayenne pepper, as garnish

Method
Shake ingredients well in ice and strain into an ice-filled old fashioned glass. Add garnish.


Waiters and Chefs, at Daniel, NYC.


Pastry Chef, at Daniel, NYC.


The Kitchen at Daniel, NYC.

All photos © Steve Schul, Cocktail Buzz

Tales of the Cocktail 2011: Seminar Preview

Tales of the Cocktail, the annual New Orleans celebration of, you guessed it, the cocktail, is fast approaching, and the list of events, seminars, and tastings is staggering. As members of the media, we are asked to attend five of the fifty-five seminars on offer. Narrowing down our choices wasn’t easy. So many of the seminars that we wished to attend overlapped, but we managed to be quite pleased with those we ultimately chose and are looking forward to hear what the pros have to say.

1. One of the already sold out Pro-Series seminars (for professionals working in the spirits industry) we’ll be attending is simply titled “Brand Ambassadors.” This seminar—sponsored by Belvedere Vodka and hosted by such cocktail and spirit luminaries as Angus Winchester, Simon Ford, John Lermayer, and Allen Katz—promises to dissect the role of a spirits brand ambassador, a position that has piqued the interest of many a star bartender, and comes with the possibilities of travel, an extravagant expense account, and constant parties, interviews, and spreading the word of spirituous enlightenment. We’re sold.

2. Another sold out Pro-Series seminar—which immediately piqued our interest—is titled “Intellectual Property 2,” sponsored by Absolute Vodka and Plymouth Gin. We missed last year’s seminar, so were very excited to have nabbed some seats for this one, which will focus on protecting your original ideas, with some emphasis on the rights of bloggers, like us.

3. The non–Pro-Series seminars that make up most of the Tales of the Cocktail roster are more creatively titled, such as “The Bad Boys of Saloons,” which quickly caught our eye. Authors Christine Sismondo and James Waller will band together to discuss the “seamy side of the saloon trade,” in which drinks with names such as Mule Skinner, Pop-Skull, Nockem Stiff, Rattlesnake, and Tonsil Varnish were served in joints sometimes referred to as Hell-on-Wheels and Hangdog Bars. Low-life booze delights are promised.

4. It’s always fun to trace the history of a particular cocktail, and this year’s winner is one of our favorites: the Mint Julep. Just thinking about sipping one on a sweltering summer day almost brings tears of joy to our eyes. “Persia to Ponies—Julep Journey,” hosted by a panel of Australian award-winning drink educators (!), aims to limn with humor the development of this bourbon-mint-ice drink, from its roots in Perisa, through the post–Civil War era, right up to the modern age (did we just hear the words Kentucky Derby?). Giggles are guaranteed, as well as juleps galore.

5. Spirits writers David Wondrich and Wayne Curtis, along with moderator Paul Clarke, tackle the ever-widening field of spirits writing in their seminar titled “Drinking on Deadline.” (It really is difficult to write about a spirits event after sipping nine different cocktails with very little food in your belly—trust us.) Book, magazine, and online spirits writing will be covered in all from starting up your own blog, to great spirits writers both pioneering and recent.

For a description of all seminars, click here.
Description of all Pro-Series seminars, click here.

Tales of the Cocktail runs from Wednesday, July 20, through Sunday, July 24.

Talking Tiki: Cocktail Buzz Visits the Oldest Chinese-American Tiki Restaurant in NYC

A little old-school charm lights up a small corner of Queens, N.Y.

Recently we paid a couple visits to King Yum, in Fresh Meadows, Queens, and since 1953, this retro Pan-Asian haunt has been a tiki lover’s paradise. Let’s take a quick peek inside. [click “Talking Tiki” link below to read our “Notible Edible”]

“Talking Tiki,” by Steve Schul and Paul Zablocki. in Edible Queens, Summer 2011.


Over a dozen rum-laden tiki drinks await you at King Yum.

There’s the tiki bar, with its thatched and lacquered Pacific island resort look, which beckons you upon arrival. Then, the Polynesian dining room, decked out in bamboo and white-clothed tables piled high with “exotic” delights. Says foodie Julie Stainer, “King Yum is a taste of old-school fun. On top of the tiki bar, the main dining room is straight out of a 60’s movie, with large red panels and fans. You expect a gong to sound every time the next course is served.”

But what about the food and drink? Read on, fellow traveler, and discover the joys of pu-pus and mai tais. And after you’ve finished, gather your friends for the delights of Chinese tiki right here in NYC. At King Yum, you’ll be reminded of the tastes of another time, with a dining experience that’s kitschy, delicious, and bewitchingly retro. Zipcar it. Just make sure to have a designated driver.

“Talking Tiki,” by Steve Schul and Paul Zablocki.

photos © Steve Schul, Cocktail Buzz

BuzzWords

A Culinary and Mixological Puzzle for Your Delectation

by Paul Zablocki

UPDATE: PUZZLE HAS BEEN SOLVED.

Congratulations to Tony Hightower of Astoria, N.Y. for solving the puzzle first. Bonus points for writing his answers out on a napkin [see photo at bottom of post].

And congratulations are in order to two more people who managed to solve the puzzle in spite of my errors in clue-numbering:

Susan Pereira of New York, N.Y., got her puzzle in second and Peggy Laurel of Sante Fe, N.M., third.

If you would like a printable version of the puzzle, click here.

Enjoy, dear reader, our very first BuzzWords, a crossword puzzle peppered with the things you imbibe, the tools you use to get your fix, and the terminology and lore associated with the world of that which we ingest { with an occasional random word thrown in to neatly fill up the squares }.

The first person to successfully solve the puzzle will get a box of booze swag. Just e-mail your results as a list, PDF, JPG, GIFF, whatever to Paul@CocktailBuzz.com.

ACROSS
1. Peculiar, curious
4. Chinese cabbage
8. In style
12. River in North Yorkshire
13. Leave out, as a step in a recipe
14. Billions of lives depend on this food staple
15. Cute actor Efron
16. Derby drink
18. Free-shipping steak company
20. Rare occurrence in a food competition
21. Robert Burns’s “— to a Haggis”
22. Fallen soufflés, for example
24. What onions make us do
26. Zester, e.g.
29. Kimchi country
33. Elated
34. Tamarind container
36. This Greene is “Insatiable”
37. Imbibed
39. Salt vis-à-vis water, perhaps
41. Crank up, as a mixer
43. Energy supplier, for short
44. Romaine
47. Regs defining quality standards for French cheese and wine
49. Possible response to “Who is this?”
52. What Cocktail Buzz loves to pair with a cocktail
55. Sticky product of wood distillation
56. Lambs lamentations
57. Once pooh-poohed fat
58. For someone fragile, this can be bruised easily
59. Units of electrical resistance
60. God of war
61. Opium-smokers’ hangout

DOWN
1. Greek shot
2. Small portion of a drink
3. Like devil’s food cake à la mode
4. Before agriculture, Homo sapiens were these
5. French friend
6. Pub request
7. Where country hams can be aged
8. Premier — (wine grade)
9. City where one can dine on laulau and poke
10. With 27-Down, a summer cooler
11. Porcino mushroom, to a Parisian chef
17. Caribbean chicken rub
19. Gatherer’s cohort
23. Taste
25. Popular fermented dairy product
26. Application
27. See 10-Down
28. Angeles lead-in
30. Chased bunnies
31. Sargasso Sea spawner
32. Anchor Steam makes a Christmas one
35. “What’s up, —?”
38. Rocks alternative
40. Applejack producer
42. French chef’s interjection after adding the final touch
44. — Wabo tequila
45. Moonfish, to a Mauian
46. Hawaiian’s love this canned treat
48. Martinet in the kitchen, or a Russian ruler
50. Strong stuffing herb
51. Liver is rich in this
53. Scotch begins with one
54. Before, in poesy

The Perfect Gin and Tonic

Gin and Tonic is a summer standard. It’s easy to make a drink when the recipe is its name.

Now that summer is officially here according to our social calendars, gin is in. Every gin drinker has a favorite way to make a gin and tonic. For some, substitutions will not do. We have several ways of making this refreshing cooler, and they all have the same 2:1 ratio of tonic to gin. One of our readers wanted to know about tonics and how they interact with different brands of gin.

“I’ve been trying to perfect gin and tonics for the summer, but always feel that the mainstay tonics — Canada Dry and Schweppes — could stand replacement with a better product. I’ve heard of a few boutique tonics, but haven’t had any luck locating any. Can you identify these products, and possibly even do an evaluation of various tonics?”

— Chris Boerboom, Brooklyn, NY

So to answer Chris’s question, we did a gin-and-tonic tasting using four different readily available gins we had on hand and three different tonics, all in our standard 2:1 ratio, plus lime wedge. Even though taste is very subjective, but we made a few discoveries along the way, namely that a dry gin is preferable, and that tonic with corn syrup is a little too sweet and leaves a bitter and somewhat chemical aftertaste. That said, here were our favorites:

1. Bombay Dry Gin and Fever Tree Tonic: Regarding London dry gins, Fever Tree Tonic is a great foil. This gin and tonic is refreshingly balanced (you can taste all three ingredients), clean and smooth, with a slightly bitter taste (but no change in the finish, it’s a consistent flavor)

2. Tanqueray Dry Gin and Fever Tree Tonic: This gin and tonic is a little sweeter than our first recommendation. The gin is more prominent, and the bitterness is stronger yet pleasant.

3. Tanqueray and Canada Dry Tonic: If you cannot locate Fever Tree Tonic, you can go to your grocery store and pick up this tonic that uses corn syrup. Sweetness and bitterness are balanced when mixing this commercially produced tonic with Tanqueray, but the overall effect is a sweeter start and a bitter finish.

Overall, we prefer London Dry Gins (the drier the better, with mild juniper taste) and Fever Tree Tonic (available at finer grocery stores . . . ask your grocer to stock it).

You may have your own preferred brand of tonic (there are lots more out there). You may want to try Q Tonic and Fentimans with your favorite gin and see if any sparks fly. And by all means, don’t stick to the 2:1 ratio if that doesn’t cut it. After all, it is your drink. Don’t settle for something you don’t like.

Gin and Tonic

Ingredients
1 1/2 (or 2) ounces gin
3 (or 4) ounces tonic water
ice
lime wedge, optional

Method
In a highball glass filled with ice, add the gin, stir a bit, and then top with tonic water. Give it another quick stir. Garnish with a lime wedge for extra flavor.

Serve with potato chips or some other salty snack.

We would love to hear from you. Let us know your favorite duo for making your perfect gin & tonic.

For more cocktail and party food ideas, visit us at www.CocktailBuzz.com.

Photo © Steve Schul, Cocktail Buzz

At the Manhattan Cocktail Classic 2011 Gala at the New York Public Library

Nattily dressed imbibers bask in the pink and purple glow of the New York Public Library at this year’s Manhattan Cocktail Classic on May 13.

This year’s Manhattan Cocktail Classic gala was held once again at the New York Public Library. The weather cooperated fully as Mother Nature blessed us with a cool spring evening with no humidity. Hanna Lee Communications, led by the illustrious Hanna Lee, delivered us cocktail aficionados yet another extravagant kickoff to the spirits and liqueur seminars and events to take place over the next four days, during which cocktail-geek nirvana is sought. Upon entering, we rubbed shoulders with thousands of thirsty souls clambering for tens of thousands of well-crafted cocktails made from every spirit that ever dripped out of a still. And, if you could flag down a cater-waiter, you can nibble on tasty au courant morsels such as a marrow hors d’oeuvres, and the now ubiquitous steamed pork buns made famous by chef David Chang and his crews at the Momofuku restaurants.

We stuck with American Whiskey, as is our wont, and delighted in sipping Dana Hutty’s riff on a Manhattan cocktail using Russell’s Reserve rye (or was it Michter’s?). We followed that with a Maker’s Mark Manhattan riff topped with champagne in one hand, and, breaking tradition, a rum rocks drink in the other. Three drinks proved sufficient to bring a silly grin to our faces.

As we roamed the majestic hallways and stairways of this iconic building, we snapped a few photos on our iPhones. Take a look. [CLICK PHOTOS TO ENLARGE]

Enter at your own risk. If you can’t find a cocktail in five minutes, you’ve already had too many.

Paul decides to have his mug immortalized.


Do we really look like this after only one cocktail?


The faces of revelers, both real and drawn.


Steve noshing in between sips.


Red Light Texting.


Luminescence at the New York Public Library.


Aerial artistry above and below (watch video).